Highlights of the Day
Our first day in Portugal began in the enchanting city of Porto with a visit to Avenida dos Aliados, a grand avenue lined with stunning architecture. From there, we made our way to the iconic Majestic Café, a beautifully adorned establishment that once hosted J.K. Rowling. The café’s luxurious ambiance transformed our lunch into a truly delightful experience. The visit to the famous Mercado do Bolhão market filled with fun. We capped off our day with a captivating Fado concert, where the performers’ songs conveyed a poignant expression of longing, leaving us mesmerized by the profound emotional depth of this cherished art form.
Logistics
Accommodation: YOUROPO – Torre (highly recommended)
Transportation: Public transportation or rideshare
Travel Journal
Our journey through Portugal begins in the enchanting city of Porto. Just before our departure, we checked the weather forecast and discovered it predicted rain every day during our stay. We nearly reconsidered our plans for the city! A friendly piece of advice: it’s best to steer clear of Porto in November.
Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal, is often described as a vibrant and industrious place. In recent years, the city has experienced remarkable growth and transformation, largely due to generous funding from the European Union.
This time, we chose to forgo the usual chain hotel in favor of a charming guesthouse YOUROPO – Torre nestled in the heart of the old town, perfectly situated for exploring all the local attractions. The little red-brick house will be our home for the next four days.
The most delightful surprise awaits us in the form of a cozy sun terrace. I’ve always wondered what it feels like to stand on such a terrace, so as the rain holds off for now, I seized the moment to step outside and capture a few photos.
After a quick tidying up, we headed to a nearby little supermarket to pick up some water and fruit. On our way back, we stumbled upon a charming store that specialized in cork products, featuring a variety of items made from the cork, same material used in wine bottle stoppers. I couldn’t resist and picked up a lovely backpack.
Next, we strolled to our first landmark, Avenida dos Aliados. This prominent avenue in the heart of Porto, Portugal, is celebrated for its rich history and stunning architecture. Flanking both sides of the street are a collection of magnificent buildings, showcasing neoclassical and Art Deco styles. At the center, the majestic City Hall (Câmara Municipal) stands proudly, serving as one of Porto’s most iconic landmarks.
Next, we walked to the famous Majestic Café. Established in 1921, the café features luxurious décor with golden walls, exquisite mirrors, and various displayed artworks, making the experience of having coffee here a lavish indulgence. In the early 20th century, Majestic Café became a gathering place for writers, artists, and intellectuals. Many renowned Porto writers and artists discussed their creations and exchanged ideas here. J.K. Rowling, the author of Harry Potter, frequently wrote here during the early stages of creating the series.
As the rain began to fall, I felt damp and chilly despite holding an umbrella when I entered the restaurant. To warm my spirits, I ordered a glass of Port wine. The seafood salad was delightful, but the cod, a cherished dish in Portugal, fell slightly short of expectations. After trying cod in other places afterward, I realized this one just didn’t quite measure up. My husband noted that it was salted. Little did he know, all Portuguese cod is salted and imported from Denmark or Canada, as overfishing has left their own coasts unable to provide it. It’s said that there are 365 different ways to prepare cod in Portugal, a testament to its cultural significance.
While chatting with the couple at the neighboring table, I learned they were from France and had visited this city four or five times. They were a wonderfully friendly couple. My husband took the opportunity to ask them about tipping customs in Europe, as the information available online can be quite varied. They explained that service charges are typically included in the bill, but given the current economic situation in Portugal, they suggested adding an extra 10%. They also mentioned that they prefer to tip in cash so the staff receives it directly. My husband adopted this approach afterward, and many people expressed heartfelt gratitude, sometimes even bowing slightly. It felt rewarding to contribute in that way. Later, I discovered that some upscale restaurants automatically add a 5% tip to the bill, which made me realize that 10% might be a bit too generous after all.
After lunch, we wandered into a shoe store across from the restaurant. I tried on a pair of their boots and was pleasantly surprised by how soft the leather was and the reasonable price, so I ended up buying a pair. The shop assistant mentioned that the brand is Spanish – Pikolinos. They also sell online, but at a higher price.
Once the rain stopped, we headed to the famous Mercado do Bolhão market. It is a historic market in Porto, known for its lively atmosphere and traditional architecture. It offers a wide variety of fresh local produce, seafood, meats, and Portuguese specialties. The market is a vibrant cultural hub, where locals and visitors come together to shop and experience the city’s food culture.
The market was filled with various food samples. Since we had just eaten lunch, we passed on most of them, but eventually stopped at a stall selling canned fish. We tried two different types of sardines and one type of cod, and they were quite delicious. When we get to Lisbon, we plan to buy some to take back to the US.
We spotted a station where they sell cherry liqueur – Ginja. The deep red drink was served in charming little chocolate cups, priced at one euro each for a tasting. We promptly ordered two cups, and my husband handed over three euros. The woman insisted on adding a little extra liqueur to my cup, and in the cheerful atmosphere, we joyfully sealed the deal.
As we were wandering around, we noticed people sampling Port wine at a stall, so we decided to order a glass of 40-year-old tawny Port. The wine was rich and full-bodied, with a perfect balance of sweetness. It’s said to be one of the finest types of Port.
We enjoyed a simple dinner before heading to a Fado concert. Fado is a traditional Portuguese music genre, rooted in the maritime era as a way for seafarers’ families to express their longing for loved ones. Experiencing Fado is a must when visiting Portugal. We had booked a concert at the Ideal Club de Fado for 6 PM. The intimate venue featured three performers who took turns captivating the audience with their songs.
Before our trip, I had heard that Fado in Lisbon is primarily sung by women, while in Coimbra, it’s mostly men. However, in Porto, I was delighted to discover that both men and women share the stage. It’s interesting how hearsay can differ from personal experience.
While I couldn’t understand the lyrics, the performance itself was mesmerizing. I now have a newfound appreciation for what it must feel like for foreigners watching Peking Opera!
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