Highlights of the Day
Today we traveled from AlUla to Hail and encountered the desert’s hidden life — from mysterious poisonous fruits to blooming flowers. We visited Qishla Palace , a historical Ottoman military site, and experienced a few logistical hiccups that made the day all the more memorable.
Accommodation: Millennium Hail Hotel
Transportation: Rental Car
Morning Desert Light & A Surprising Fruit Encounter
Today we left AlUla and headed to another city — Hail.
I went out to the backyard again this morning to take a few more photos of the desert at dawn. My previous impression of the desert was that it was vast, endless, lifeless, and easy to get lost in. But this trip, with close and small-scale encounters, I discovered another side of the desert — its amazing adaptability, its ever-changing look under different lighting, and its ability to sustain life.
I remember during my first desert trip in Dubai, while sitting in the car, I spotted a small fruit that looked like a tiny apple. I asked the guide what it was. He said a name we couldn’t understand, and my husband said he wanted to get out and try it. The guide laughed and said, “It’s very sour. One bite will keep you sour for a whole day.” So we gave up on the idea.
While walking in the desert in AlUla this time, we saw that same fruit again. After looking it up, I found out it’s called Citrullus colocynthis, or bitter apple — extremely sour and bitter, and even poisonous. Thank goodness we chatted with that guide back in Dubai — otherwise we might have been tempted to try it!
Besides that, we also saw other small desert plants, some even blooming with colorful flowers. Life always finds a way.
Breakfast Buzz, A Familiar Face & Ramadan Season
This morning’s breakfast was switched to a buffet format, with a small hot dish menu and fruit available for self-service. We clearly noticed more guests than before, likely the reason behind the switch to buffet style.
We unexpectedly ran into the same waiter who served us last night at the Thai restaurant. He was so excited to see us — like seeing old friends. He told us he had worked at the Thai restaurant until midnight and had to start here early in the morning, working until 10:00 AM. Then at 6:00 PM, he would return to the Thai restaurant again. A tough schedule indeed.
Later, I checked the hotel rates online — they had increased quite a bit. Looks like the end of Ramadan is approaching, and peak season is coming.
Five Hours of Sandscape
After breakfast, we drove more than five hours to reach Hail. The entire road was surrounded by desert. Normally people talk about the vastness of the ocean, but today, I experienced a vast “sand-ocean.”
After driving for about three hours, we finally spotted a gas station. We stopped for fuel, a break, and lunch. However, after refueling, we realized none of our credit cards were working! Thankfully, we had exchanged a little cash back at the hotel in Jeddah — otherwise we really wouldn’t have known what to do.
Qishla Palace: A Glimpse into Ottoman Military History
By the time we arrived in Hail, it was already quite late. So we stopped by to visit the historic Qishla Palace, a former military fortress from the Ottoman era.
The structure is a large square-shaped building made of mud bricks, surrounded by high walls with watchtowers for surveillance. Walking inside, you can really feel the military atmosphere — rows of identical soldier quarters lined the edges, and a large courtyard sat in the center. A kind staff member kindly told us we could go up one more level, and from the rooftop, we had a full panoramic view of the entire palace. Impressive!
Local Flavor & A Translation Fail
In Hail, many stores had only Arabic signage — a clear sign that tourism isn’t too developed here yet.
One funny story: we stopped by a small roadside market to buy some water and milk. Back at the hotel, we realized… we had bought yogurt instead! Even though we carefully translated the label with our phones, we still failed to tell the difference.
Dinner Mishap & Lifesaving Instant Noodles
We stayed at a hotel inside a university campus in Hail. Hoping to have dinner at the hotel, we asked the front desk, who told us both buffet and à la carte options were available.
At the restaurant, the waiter told us the buffet was downstairs. We said we preferred à la carte. A while later, he returned saying the chef was very busy and the wait would be long. We said no problem.
However, after more than 30 minutes, not a single dish had arrived, and the waiter had disappeared. The front desk was also unmanned. Starving, we gave up and decided to go back to the room and cook instant noodles.
Just as the noodles were ready, the phone rang — they said our dishes were done! Eventually, they delivered the food to our room. In the end, one takeaway: during Ramadan in the Middle East, your safest meal options are the buffet or instant noodles — skip à la carte.
🌍 What’s Next?
On Day 25, we dive into the heart of Hail’s ancient history. From the remarkable rock art at Jabal Umm Sinman to thoughtful conversations with local guides, the day offers a deep look into a region once at the crossroads of trade and pilgrimage. The desert whispers stories of empires past—and we’re here to listen.
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