Highlights of the Day
Today we drove six hours from Hail to Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia. Along the way, we discussed surprising cultural observations—from the black niqabs worn by Saudi women, to the Qiblah direction signs in hotel rooms, and the difference between Eastern and Western Arabic numerals. A few small personal encounters added depth to our understanding of local life. Riyadh instantly stood out as the most modern and developed city we’ve seen so far in Saudi Arabia.
Accommodation: Riyadh Marriott Hotel
Transportation: Rental Car
A Long Drive Through the Desert
Today we drove six hours to the capital city of Saudi Arabia—Riyadh.
The road trip was a bit boring, so we passed the time chatting about things that challenged our expectations.
Black Veils and Shared Glances
Among all the Middle Eastern countries we visited on this trip, Saudi Arabia had the most conservative dress code for women. The most common sights were black abayas, black veils, and black niqabs—some women chose to reveal only their eyes (niqab), while others covered their entire faces. This form of dress not only reflects religious beliefs but also embodies cultural customs and aesthetic values. To outsiders, the women often appear almost identical, which might very well be the original intention behind such attire.
Let me share two small but memorable experiences:
First, at our hotel in Hail, I wanted to follow up with the customer service manager. I returned to her desk but found it empty. Nearby stood a woman. Unsure, I hesitantly asked, “Are you the manager?” She looked at me blankly and said, “No.”
Second, at the food court in Hail, I exchanged a smile with a woman sitting at a table. Later, two Saudi women approached while I was ordering Chinese food. One of them greeted me warmly, as if she knew me. I assumed it was the same woman. I greeted her back, tried to start a conversation, but they giggled shyly and walked away—perhaps because of the language barrier.
Shopping Mall Fashion vs. Streetwear
Though all we see on the streets are modest black robes, the women’s clothing in malls is colorful and trendy—just like in Western countries.
I used to wonder when they wore these outfits. I later learned: at home, or during women-only events.
Since 2019, Saudi Arabia has gradually relaxed dress code restrictions.
Women, both local and foreign, are no longer required to wear black abayas or headscarves, though modesty is still expected.
Next time we come, I wouldn’t be surprised if things look quite different.
The Qiblah Arrow in Every Hotel Room
In every hotel we’ve stayed at in Saudi Arabia, there’s a small ceiling arrow labeled “AL QEBLAH”—Arabic for “prayer direction.”
It points to the Kaaba in Mecca, so that Muslims can face the correct direction when praying.
Muslims pray five times a day, so this simple sign plays a vital role in their daily routine.
The Real “Arabic Numerals”
We were surprised to discover that the Arabic numerals we learned in school aren’t used here!
What we know are Western Arabic numerals, while Saudi Arabia uses Eastern Arabic numerals.
In elevators, both sets appear—one we understand, the other we had to decode.
To prepare, we even practiced Eastern numerals in the car during our long drives.
It paid off—many highway speed signs only show Eastern digits!
First Impressions of Riyadh
As we drove into Riyadh, one thing was clear:
This is the most modern and developed city we’ve seen in all of Saudi Arabia.
🌍 What’s Next?
On Day 27, we venture into Riyadh’s striking desert landscapes to witness the awe-inspiring “Edge of the World.” At evening, we gain a rare glimpse into Saudi social customs—from wedding traditions to the lively gatherings of women in hotel ballrooms. A day where natural majesty meets cultural intimacy awaits.
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