Highlights of the Day
Our first day in Riyadh coincided with Eid al-Fitr. From braving the rough journey to the Edge of the World, to glimpsing a private women’s celebration, we experienced the contrast of harsh landscapes and evolving cultural expressions. A mix of awe, curiosity, and deep respect.
Accommodation: Riyadh Marriott Hotel
Transportation: Rental Car
Arrival on Eid al-Fitr
We arrived in Riyadh on the first day of Eid al-Fitr. Initially, we thought the government might hold some large public celebrations, but we later learned that most Eid festivities here are privately organized.
In the morning, we noticed a noticeboard in our hotel lobby with two event listings: one for a men’s gathering in the morning and another for women in the evening. As we were reading it, the front desk manager walked over. We asked if these were Eid dance parties, but he explained that the morning event was a men’s wedding, and the evening one was for women. It was fascinating to learn that weddings here are typically held in two separate gatherings—one for men and one for women.
A Proper Lunch at Last
For the first time in days, we could openly eat during daylight hours again! We headed to a Chinese restaurant called Jiangnan Yuan. The food tasted quite authentic. The beef was very tender, the shrimp was average, but the vegetables were the real highlight—spicy shredded potatoes and cabbage in soup. We were quite satisfied.
Driving through Riyadh, we immediately felt like we were in a truly international city. To our surprise, we even spotted a JD Logistics truck on the road—clearly, their business is thriving here.
After the meal, we asked the front desk whether they were open during Ramadan. She said they were, but only on the second floor, to keep things more discreet. This place is relatively open compared to other cities we’ve been to, where restaurants are usually closed during the day.
The Grueling Journey to the Edge of the World
The Edge of the World is one of Riyadh’s most famous landmarks, but it’s equally notorious for its challenging road. We joined a local tour via Ctrip, and they picked us up from the hotel in the afternoon.
In previous travel journals, I’ve complained about bumpy roads in Costa Rica—but compared to what we experienced here, that was nothing. There’s essentially no real road to the Edge of the World, just sandy tracks formed by repeated driving. The car zigzagged across the sand, bouncing and jerking constantly. The worst part was the washboard sections—high-frequency vibrations paired with inclines, declines, and sudden turns. It felt like my brain was sloshing inside my skull. I honestly worried I might pass out.
We were immensely relieved we didn’t attempt this route ourselves. A breakdown or getting lost out here would be no joke. Fortunately, local guides seem to look out for each other. When our driver spotted a vehicle pulled over, he slowed down to check if they needed help. But seeing a group of young guys casually smoking, he figured they were fine and moved on.
A Chinese Muslim Tour Guide
Our guide was from Yunnan, China. Having grown up Muslim, he said living in Saudi Arabia felt very natural to him. His cousins work here too, and he followed them to seek opportunity. He told us he plans to do this job for five years, then return home to settle down. We asked whether he made more money here or back in a Chinese mega-city like Beijing or Shanghai. Without hesitation, he said: here.
Edge of the World – Breathtaking Views
After a grueling 40-minute ride, we reached the destination. Seeing all the parked cars, we realized just how popular this site is.
From the parking lot, we had to hike along a rocky path for half an hour to reach the cliff’s edge. The first half wasn’t too bad—uneven and gravelly, but not dangerous. The second half was trickier: beneath the loose stones was a steep slope. One wrong step could easily lead to a nasty fall. Every step had to be carefully planted, and I silently prayed that no one behind me would slip.
Finally, we arrived at the legendary “Edge of the World.” This vertical rock wall rises 1,131 meters—jutting into the sky like a natural skyscraper. From the edge, you look out over an endless Arabian desert. The horizon blurs into the sky. It really does feel like standing at the edge of the earth.
We reached the summit near sunset, just as the sky bathed the cliffs in golden-red light. It was a magnificent sight.
Conquering the Cliff (Sort of)
On the cliff, a few brave tourists walked right up to the edge—some even lay down for photos. My own long-nurtured ambition stirred. “Maybe I’ll try it today,” I thought.
I handed my phone to the guide and crept toward the edge. He offered to steady me, but I declined—working together might be more dangerous. Before I even reached the very tip, he shouted, “That’s enough!” I sat down. Looking over the edge still made me nervous. A crowd had gathered behind the guide to watch. Probably everyone hoped they could summon the courage to try it too.
When I returned to safety, the guide said his legs were trembling the whole time he was taking photos. I was genuinely proud of myself—it was something I’d always wanted to try but never dared until now.
Here, at the literal edge of the world, it felt like I was looking at all the miles we had come—and all that lay ahead.
A Glimpse into Saudi Women’s Gatherings
After dinner, curiosity led my sister and me to explore the hotel’s ballroom. We wanted to glimpse what an all-female Arab gathering looked like.
The door was shut. We tried pushing, but it wouldn’t budge, so we turned to leave. Suddenly, the door opened, and a woman in black smiled and invited us inside. The hall was empty—just tables with water bottles, and a woman adjusting a sound system in the corner. We asked if there was a wedding tonight. She said no, it was an Eid party.
As we were leaving, we saw several Arab women entering. Some handed their cloaks to the cloakroom attendant (the same woman who let us in). Others checked their makeup in front of a giant mirror. All were dressed exquisitely—completely different from the black robes we saw in public. Out of respect for their privacy, I didn’t take photos, but their desire to express their beauty in female-only spaces was striking.
In the hotel lobby afterward, we saw a woman in full niqab leading four girls toward the ballroom. The girls wore bright, carefree dresses. One of the older girls, though dressed in an abaya and headscarf, left her face uncovered. In that moment, I felt I glimpsed a cultural shift taking place—tradition and modernity coexisting. We didn’t attend the party, but their joy was contagious.
🌍 What’s Next?
On Day 28, we dive deeper into Riyadh’s history with a visit to Diriyah—the birthplace of the first Saudi state. From mudbrick ruins and UNESCO-listed architecture to quiet corners that echo with the footsteps of kings, it’s a day rich in cultural pride and historical depth.
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