Middle East Travel Journal Day 11: A Day Trip to Nizwa
Highlights of the Day
Today we explored the historic city of Nizwa, Oman, visiting the Nizwa Fort , Jabreen Castle, and Bahla Fort. We also experienced the charm of the Nizwa souq, discovered seasonal fruits like Indian jujube and date palm inflorescence, and witnessed how Ramadan affects local routines. From sipping coffee during Ramadan to learning how boiling dates were once used as weapons, and finally facing a dramatic sandstorm—today was full of cultural surprises.
🏛️ First Impressions of Nizwa: The Old Capital & Market
Nizwa was once the capital of Oman. In the 17th century, the famous Nizwa Fort was built here to defend against Portuguese attacks. Our main goal today was to visit this historic site.
Right next to the fort is the Nizwa souq, which hosts a goat market every Friday morning. By the time we arrived, the trading was over, and the market was quiet. Still, we saw vendors selling fruits, household items, and clay pots. We were lucky to spot fruits rarely seen in supermarkets—like fresh green Indian jujubes that looked just like Chinese red dates. I regret not buying a few to try! We also saw something that looked like wheat heads. I didn’t recognize it at the time, but later learned it was a date palm inflorescence—used for pollinating date trees. It’s highly seasonal, so we were lucky to catch it.
⏳ With Nizwa Fort Closed, Onward to Jabreen Castle
Unfortunately, Nizwa Fort didn’t open until 1:00 PM, likely due to Ramadan scheduling. So, we decided to visit the smaller Jabreen Castle first.
Next to the castle’s parking area stood a grove of palm trees, with goats and dogs strolling freely beneath. It felt like a classic Middle Eastern farm scene.
Jabreen Castle was built around 1670 by Imam Bil’arab bin Sultan of the Yaruba dynasty, who moved the capital from Nizwa to Jabreen.
☕ A Rare Treat During Ramadan: Open Café!
At the ticket office, we were told the castle had a functioning café, where we could enjoy coffee and sandwiches, even have them reheated. This was our first time during Ramadan finding a place to eat lunch in Oman—what a novelty!
🎨 A Castle with Artistic Flair
Imam Bil’arab bin Sultan had a love for art, culture, and architecture, and it shows in the design of Jabreen Castle. The interiors are richly decorated with Islamic patterns and details. There’s even a library, with wooden bookstands that give off a scholarly charm.
Inside, rooms were labeled, such as “Sultan’s Bedroom” and “Women’s Room.” Only the Sultan’s room had a bed; all others had just carpets. The furnishings were extremely minimal. Compared to the residences of 17th-century Chinese or European monarchs, this was quite austere.
One fascinating fact we learned: in old times, dates were used as a weapon. Locals would boil them and pour them on invaders from above—an ingenious use of local resources!
Imam Bil’arab bin Sultan died in 1692 and was buried in the castle.
🏯 A Quick Stop at Bahla Fort
After visiting Jabreen Castle, we made a brief stop at Bahla Fort to look around.
🏰 Back to Nizwa Fort
Finally, we returned to Nizwa Fort. Built in 1668 by Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Yarubi, it was constructed to defend against Portuguese invasions, as Portugal was a rising sea power in the 17th century. Nizwa Fort is one of the most famous and best-preserved forts in Oman.
The main tower measures 45 meters in diameter and 34 meters high, making it the largest and tallest in the country. We also saw a set of living quarters used by an imam during our visit.
🌪️ A Sandstorm on the Way Home
On our drive back, we encountered a sandstorm. With little vegetation on either side of the road, strong winds kicked up massive clouds of dust. The scene was both breathtaking and intimidating.
🌍 What’s Next?
Stay tuned for Day 12 as we take day trip to Bimmah Sinkhole, The Dhow Factory and Sur!
Have you ever visited Nizwa Fort? What part amazed you the most? Share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear them!
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