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Sur Coastline 苏尔海岸线

Middle East Travel Journal Day 12 – A Day Trip to Sur

Highlights of the Day

Today we set off from Muscat for a one-day trip along the southeastern coast of Oman. Although we didn’t find the pink lake we had hoped for, we visited the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve , explored the traditional hand-built dhow ships at The Dhow Factory in Sur, and admired the beautiful Bimmah Sinkhole . In the evening, we enjoyed an Iftar set menu at the Al Angham Restaurant near the Royal Opera House. Despite some small twists, it was a day full of surprises, beautiful coastal views, and encounters with Oman’s deep traditions.

Logistics

Accommodation: DoubleTree by Hilton Muscat Qurum

 Transportation: Rental Car

🚗 Exploring the Southeast Coast from Muscat

Today we took a one-day road trip heading southeast from Muscat, aiming to explore some interesting landscapes in that direction.

Our first stop was the distant Pink Lake. The pink color of this type of lake is caused by a high concentration of salt-tolerant algae, like Dunaliella salina, and other microorganisms. From the photos we had seen online, it looked stunning. We drove more than three hours following Google Maps, but what greeted us was just a dry, sandy basin with a bit of water, and not pink at all. Only the sandy ground had a faint pink hue.
We were a bit confused. So we stopped at a nearby gas station to refuel and casually asked about it. However, the gas station attendant didn’t speak English, and communication failed. We then crossed the street to a small shop, bought some drinks, and tried asking again. After showing them a photo, one of the staff finally understood and told us that the real Pink Lake was still about an hour further south.
Thinking about the long drive back later, we decided to give up.
Later, we found out that the location marked on Google Maps did indeed once have a Pink Lake, but due to drying out over the years, only faint traces of the pink color remain on the sand and salt crust.

🐢 Turtle Reserve: A Missed Encounter

Next, we drove to the nearby Turtle Reserve.
Upon arrival, we discovered that turtle-watching tours only happen at 4:30 AM or 8:20 PM, and there are seasonal variations as well. In other words, unless you stay overnight, it’s almost impossible to see turtles on the same day.
There was also a Turtle Museum inside, but after checking with the reception, we learned that it didn’t have live turtles, only some educational displays. So we simply took a few photos and left.

Turtle Reserve 乌龟保护区

⚓ Visiting The Dhow Factory

We then headed to a well-known attraction — The Dhow Factory.
Dhows are traditional Arabian wooden sailing ships historically used for fishing and maritime trade. Today, these hand-built dhows are primarily made for high-end private collectors, museums, and government projects. Prices range from around $10,000 to $200,000 depending on the size and craftsmanship.

At the factory, we first visited a small museum displaying ship models and traditional tools. A large dhow was docked nearby, which visitors were free to climb aboard and explore. Further in, we saw several craftsmen busy building new ships by hand.
One thing that really caught my attention was a group of Arab girls wearing long robes and headscarves, climbing up and down the ships and taking photos excitedly. They even chatted freely with the workers. This completely broke my previous stereotypes about Arab women — it turns out that underneath those robes and scarves, they share the same lively curiosity as we do.

The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂
The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂
The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂
The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂
The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂
The Dhow Factory 多乌造船厂

🌊 A Breezy Walk Along Sur's Coastline

We also briefly visited Sur, a town known for its maritime history.
Instead of exploring the town itself, we chose to stroll along the coastline, enjoy the sea breeze, and take photos — a simple yet very pleasant experience.

Sur Coastline 苏尔海岸线
Sur Coastline 苏尔海岸线
Sur Coastline 苏尔海岸线

🕳 Discovering the Natural Wonder: Bimmah Sinkhole

Continuing our drive back toward Muscat, we stopped by the famous natural wonder — Bimmah Sinkhole.
Locals once believed it was created by a meteorite crash, hence its other name: Hawiyyat Najm (“The Falling Star”).
In reality, the sinkhole was formed through the erosion of the limestone by underground saltwater, causing the ground to collapse.

The sinkhole is about 20 meters deep.
At first, I thought it would be stagnant water, but actually, it has a natural inflow:

  • Part of the water comes from inland freshwater springs.
  • Another part seeps in slowly from the Oman Gulf through underground rock crevices.

Thus, the water is a mix of seawater and freshwater, creating a beautiful blue-green hue.
Surrounded by yellow limestone rocks, the overall color palette is wonderfully vivid, making it a perfect spot for photography.
The park built a long staircase with about 73 steps leading down to the water. Surprisingly, there was no entrance fee; visitors could come and go freely.

Bimmah Sinkhole 比马尔深坑
Bimmah Sinkhole 比马尔深坑
Bimmah Sinkhole 比马尔深坑
Bimmah Sinkhole 比马尔深坑

🍽️ Iftar Dinner at the Royal Opera House

For dinner, we returned to the area around the Royal Opera House Muscat.
We chose a local restaurant called Al Angham, famous for serving authentic Omani cuisine.
During Ramadan, dinners are usually Iftar meals — either buffet style or set menus. Since we had already tried buffets before, tonight we opted for the set menu.

The set looked very abundant: fresh fruits, soup, an appetizer platter, and four main dishes.
However, the way they served the main courses was quite unusual:

  • First, a big bowl of tuna rice was brought out.
  • Then, different servers would occasionally come by to add chicken rice, braised lamb, and other dishes, all piled into the same bowl.

It seemed like a simple and efficient way to let fasting guests quickly get their fill, while also helping the restaurant serve more people during the peak time.
Interestingly, the portions were unlimited — the servers kept asking if we wanted more food, almost like a buffet presented differently.

Dinner at Al Angham 品尝阿曼本地菜

🎶 Royal Opera House Under the Lights

After dinner, we walked around the Royal Opera House again.
Under the evening lights, the magnificent building seemed even more majestic, its reflection shimmering perfectly on the polished marble floors.
It was impossible not to stop and take another round of photos — a beautiful ending to the day.

Royal Opera House night view 皇家歌剧院夜景
Royal Opera House night view 皇家歌剧院夜景

🌍 What’s Next?

Stay tuned for Day 13 as we take a guided tour inside the Royal Opera House Muscat, Experiencing the Local Mall and take Stroll by the Sea!

Have you ever visited Sur ? What part amazed you the most?
Share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear them!

If you’d like to learn more about the itinerary, please click the button below to download a free copy of the customizable itinerary.

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