Highlights of the Day
Our day was full of surprises and awe. From a hidden breakfast room respecting Ramadan customs, to strolling through a thousand-year-old mudbrick AlUla old town, admiring breathtaking canyon views from Harrat Viewpoint, and witnessing the magical reflections of the Maraya Concert Hall — every moment was unforgettable. Despite minor inconveniences with transportation, AlUla left a deep and beautiful first impression.
Accommodation: Banyan Tree AlUla
Transportation: Rental Car
A Ramadan Breakfast Surprise
This morning, we went downstairs for breakfast, only to find the restaurant completely empty — no people, no food. While we were puzzled, a staff member pointed toward a small room. It turned out they had moved the breakfast service to a more private space in accordance with the Ramadan custom of not eating in public during daylight hours.
Ever since we left Dubai and Abu Dhabi, we hadn’t seen any breakfast rooms decorated in traditional Arabian style.
Off to AlUla
Our destination today was AlUla, a historic city about a four-hour drive away. This ancient city traces its history back to the Dadan Kingdom (6th to 1st century BCE) and later to the Lihyan Kingdom. We’ll be seeing more of their remains in the coming days.
Strolling Through the Old Town of AlUla
Today, we first visited the Old Town of AlUla, where people lived around the 10th century CE — more than a thousand years ago. It’s amazing how well the structures have been preserved, seemingly without much deliberate restoration, likely thanks to the dry local climate.
The old town was just there by the roadside, no entrance fee required. A small opening allowed us to wander in freely. The houses were built from mud bricks, with narrow alleys and surprisingly low doorways — clearly, people back then were much shorter.
A Hidden “New Ancient City”
We asked a local, and he pointed us toward another “old town” across the street and told us where to park. Near the parking lot, we found a golf cart shuttle ready to take visitors to the site.
This “old town” was noticeably more polished, with wide streets and rows of shops — most of them closed. Many restaurants were there as well, and it felt like a newly built area styled as an ancient town. To our surprise, many shop entrances even had Chinese translations!
Harrat Viewpoint: Overlooking an Ancient Land
Next, we drove up to Harrat Viewpoint, one of the highest points in AlUla. From here, we enjoyed a breathtaking view of the vast canyon landscape, shaped millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions and long periods of erosion.
The scenery reminded me of the Grand Canyon in the U.S., but unlike there, people still live in this valley. White houses dotted the green oasis below, surrounded by red sandstone cliffs glowing softly under the setting sun.
Coffee with a View
A small café nearby was open, so we went in for a drink. Curious, we asked the owner why the café could operate during Ramadan daytime hours. He explained that Saudi Arabia has become much more open in recent years.
Although the coffee was a bit pricey, considering it had to be transported up from the valley, it felt understandable. Plus, the viewpoint itself didn’t charge any entry fee, which made the entire experience feel very visitor-friendly.
World’s Largest Mirrored Building: Maraya Concert Hall
AlUla’s Maraya Concert Hall is known as the largest mirrored building in the world, with walls entirely covered in reflective surfaces. Conveniently, it was located right next to our hotel, so we went to check it out.
By the time we arrived, the sun was about to set. The mirrors reflected the surrounding mountains beautifully, creating a stunning symmetrical scene.
However, walking close to the building felt like stepping into an oven — the mirrored walls reflected the sun’s rays so intensely that it felt much hotter than standing in direct sunlight.
A Unique Stay Among the Canyons
Back at the hotel, we realized we were staying right at the bottom of the canyon, surrounded by towering cliffs. It made me wonder if our hotel was one of the white spots we had seen earlier from the viewpoint.
During check-in, we were informed that cars were not allowed into the residential area; we had to hand over the keys, and a golf cart shuttle took us to our room.
The hotel design was fascinating — from a distance, the rooms looked like tents scattered across the desert. Up close, each “tent” was actually a solid building with a canvas structure placed over it.
Riding the shuttle, we enjoyed the view of uniquely shaped rocks all around. We even spotted a camel gracefully pacing by the roadside, casually nibbling on some grass. Although the ground was sandy, there was surprisingly little dust in the air.
Our room was beautifully decorated, with a backyard facing directly toward the Maraya Concert Hall — the view was unbeatable.
A Romantic Yet Tricky Dinner Experience
Dinner options included a buffet or à la carte. Although the staff asked several times if we wanted the buffet, we firmly chose à la carte. The buffet was set up outdoors, which was certainly romantic, but eating dinner over sand, worrying about possibly ingesting dust, didn’t seem too appetizing.
The Only Inconvenience: Waiting for the Shuttle
After dinner, we wanted to head back to our room, but there were no golf carts in sight. We waited for about 20 minutes before a driver finally arrived. This was the only inconvenience during an otherwise wonderful stay.
🌍 What’s Next?
Day 22 unfolds with awe at every turn—from a desert sunrise to the ancient tombs of Hegra. We’ll marvel at the ingenious design of a Nabataean rock pool, witness wind-carved stones standing like sculptures in the sand and explore AlUla’s seamless blend of natural beauty and deep history. Get ready for a day of wonder, stillness, and stories carved in stone.
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