Highlights of the Day
From sunrise in the desert to exploring the ancient tombs of Hegra, today was packed with moments of awe. Whether it was the genius design of the rock pool or the silent beauty of wind-carved Elephant Rock, AlUla delivered both nature and history in perfect balance.
Accommodation: Banyan Tree AlUla
Transportation: Rental Car
Sunrise in the Desert
We woke up early today just to catch the desert sunrise. It was my first time welcoming the dawn in a desert. Stepping out of the back door of our room, we found ourselves in a vast expanse of sand, with rocky hills rising in the distance. As the sky gradually lit up, the sun peeked through the gap between the mountains, casting its first light. It was completely quiet, without a single sound. Only the wind rustled across the sand. It felt refreshing and a bit overwhelming to witness such a sunrise in this setting.
A Breakfast with Style
Breakfast at the hotel was far from the usual buffet. It was à la carte, and quite refined. We were served sandwiches, salad, a fruit bowl, and egg dishes. The service was great—each table even got a big basket of bread. We didn’t finish the bread and asked if we could take it away. Not only did the staff agree, they even packed it neatly for us. That became our lunch. Later we noticed many guests did the same, since most restaurants in town are closed during the day. The hotel staff seemed completely understanding.
Rock Wall Pool: A Natural Design Wonder
The hotel is known for its iconic rock wall pool. Today we finally saw it for ourselves. Only then did we understand the name. The pool is set right between two towering rock walls, like a secret canyon. The design is genius. It’s also an infinity pool, with turquoise water flowing gently between the red sandstone walls. When sunlight hits the surface, it sparkles like diamonds. Absolutely breathtaking.
A Stroll from the Canyon Floor
Walking around the hotel grounds was also enjoyable. Usually we view canyons from above, but today we were in one, looking up at the rocks from below. It was a very different perspective. There were so many interesting rock formations, it felt like you could name them all. One big rock near the parking lot looked just like a turtle!
Visiting Hegra — Saudi Arabia’s First UNESCO World Heritage Site
The main destination today was Hegra. It was inscribed as Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. Private cars aren’t allowed, so we had to reserve seats on their official shuttle bus—two weeks in advance just to get an afternoon slot.
From the 1st century BCE to the 1st century CE, this valley was home to the Nabataean Kingdom. Positioned between eastern Arabia and the Mediterranean, it became a vital hub on ancient trade routes. Our guide said the first ruler of this area was officially recognized by the Roman emperor.
Tour Highlights: Life, Tombs, and Craftsmanship
The first stop showed how people lived and gathered. The guide pointed to a large cave, explaining that it was where people once watched performances, had dinner, and socialized. It was well-ventilated and shaded—clearly a smart choice. Nearby rock faces had ancient Arabic inscriptions. Our guide said the language was like today’s English—a common tongue across many tribes. He even said he could still understand parts of it. Amazing!
The second stop featured tombs carved directly into the mountains. Each tomb marked the family name, allowing descendants to be buried together. Some had elaborate carvings, others were simpler.
The third and most famous stop was the tomb of Laheyan, son of Kusa. His name is engraved between two columns on the facade. At around 23 meters tall, it’s the largest, tallest, and most luxurious tomb in Hegra. Sadly, it was never finished. No one knows why. But thanks to that, we can see how it was constructed: the builders started from the top and carved downward, removing the upper “ladder” section after each stage. The lower part still has three or four unfinished steps.
The final stop was a natural phenomenon: two wind-eroded rocks that, over time, came to resemble human faces.
As maritime trade routes took over, Hegra lost its importance and was eventually abandoned.
Elephant Rock at Sunset
We caught the sunset at our last stop: Elephant Rock. It really does look like a giant elephant! The area was well maintained, with wooden walkways and several large sand pits filled with cushions for visitors to relax and take photos—and everything was free. Big thumbs up!
Dinner at the Thai Restaurant
Dinner was at the hotel’s Thai restaurant. The food and service were top-notch. We liked it so much, we came back the next day. Only downside was the long wait for the shuttle back to our room. Eventually, a staff member personally drove us. Great attitude and hospitality.
Sitting beneath this monumental rock formation, we couldn’t help but wonder how many travelers before us had paused in awe at the same sight.
🌍 What’s Next?
On Day 23, we continue our deep dive into AlUla’s ancient past. From the dramatic rock-carved tombs of the Dadan civilization to the multilingual echoes at Jabal Ikmah, the day is rich with history. As night falls, the desert sky becomes our ceiling—offering a starlit finale to an unforgettable chapter.
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