Highlights of the Day
Logistics
Accommodation: Tivoli Carvoeiro (highly recommended)
Transportation: rental car
Travel Journal
Sagres, perched at the furthest southwestern tip of Portugal—and, indeed, of all of Europe—is often hailed as the ‘edge of the world.’ This remote and windswept destination, where the land meets the vast, untamed Atlantic Ocean, offers a striking and dramatic landscape that has long captured the imagination of travelers and explorers. Its towering cliffs, rugged coastline, and endless horizon evoke a sense of timelessness, where the forces of nature seem to reign supreme. It’s a place that beckons the spirit of adventure and discovery – a true gateway to the ocean beyond.
We arrived with the initial goal of capturing its beauty for my photo collection and checking it off my list, but we were pleasantly surprised to uncover a rich history woven into its rugged landscape. In the 15th century, Prince Henry the Navigator, a pioneering figure in Portuguese exploration, established the nation’s first navigation school here. To protect his ambitions, he also built thick fortifications around the area. The circular grassy patch that still exists today is said to have been where navigators crafted their compasses.
Just a short drive away, we found ourselves in Salema, a picturesque fishing village that remains blissfully untouched by mass tourism. Searching for a charming, authentic spot for lunch, we approached a friendly local strolling down the street. Delighted by our inquiry, he eagerly recommended a nearby restaurant, which he called the best in the area. He even walked with us partway before we gently insisted we could manage the rest.
The restaurant was a true local gem, with a warm, welcoming ambiance that made it feel like dining in the comfort of a friend’s backyard. The decor was simple yet inviting, and the atmosphere exuded a relaxed, homey charm. The seafood was impeccably fresh, prepared in traditional Portuguese style, and every bite was a celebration of the region’s flavors. It was an unforgettable dining experience that perfectly captured the essence of Salema.
After lunch, we meandered down to the coast. Tucked between towering cliffs, the area revealed pristine beaches with soft, powdery sand and crystal-clear waters. The serene atmosphere and timeless beauty of the landscape offered a peaceful retreat, where nature’s simplicity reigns, and the world slows down just enough to let you catch your breath.
As we strolled along the shore, we noticed a collection of clay pots casually resting on the sand. We had heard that Salema’s fishermen use these traditional pots to catch octopus, a method passed down through generations. The sight of these pots, weathered by the sea, felt like a glimpse into the past—an enduring symbol of Salema’s deep connection to the ocean and its timeless fishing traditions.
Next, we encountered a fisherman mending his nets. Though communication in English was a bit challenging, we pointed to the pots, and with a smile, he proudly exclaimed “polvo” (octopus) in Portuguese, making me feel an unexpected sense of connection.
The beach stretched endlessly before us, a haven of golden sands and gentle waves. Its serene beauty invited a leisurely stroll, with pauses to capture the horizon and footprints in the sand. The waves lapped playfully at our feet as we splashed in the cool water, while the setting sun bathed the scene in hues of amber and rose—a moment of pure, timeless bliss.
As the day drew to a close, we spotted an old tractor parked by the beach with an elderly man sitting in it, enjoying the warmth of the sun. My husband explained that this tractor is used to launch fishing boats into the sea every morning and bring them back in the evening. As I approached to take a photo, the old man kindly moved aside, clearly not wanting to be part of anyone’s snapshot. This peaceful village, with its timeless charm, felt like a world apart from the rush of modern life. Whether it was the warmth of its people, the simplicity of its traditions, or the serene beauty of its shores, Salema left an indelible impression on my heart. I’ll certainly return to linger here a little longer next time.
After a day filled with exploration and serenity, we returned to the hotel for a relaxing evening at the One Restaurant. Through the restaurant’s window, we caught a glimpse of a magical banquet unfolding outside. Tables adorned with pristine white linens stretched across the venue, while twinkling lights sparkled like stars above. The palm trees were bathed in a dreamy purple glow, adding an ethereal touch to the scene. Elegantly dressed men and women filled the space, their attention fixed on the front podium. It appeared to be a wedding or perhaps a rehearsal dinner, radiating an air of celebration and romance.
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