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Lisbon Sunset

Portugal Travel Journal Day 14: Sintra

Highlights of the Day

Just a short train ride from Lisbon, Sintra captivates with its cool climate and romantic architecture, once a retreat for Portuguese nobility and European elites. The enchanting Quinta da Regaleira impressed us with its mystical Initiation Well. We later visited the vibrant “Tomato and Egg Palace” (Palácio Nacional da Pena), steeped in royal history and intrigue. After a serene sunset at a rooftop bar, we savored fresh seafood at Time Out Market, ending the day with delicious razor clams.

Logistics

Accommodation: Lisbon Finestay 8 Building Apartments (highly recommended)

Transportation: Public transportation or rideshare

Travel Journal

Sintra is just a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon, a journey reminiscent of my daily train commute to work.

Lisbon train station

The Sintra Mountains, with their cool climate, once drew Portuguese nobility to build summer residences there. In the 19th century, Sintra became a haven for wealthy artisans and European elites, who constructed exquisite mansions in the Romantic style. 

Visit Quinta da Regaleira

Our first stop of the day was the famous Quinta da Regaleira.

Quinta da Regaleira
Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is a captivating estate in Sintra, built in the early 20th century by Carvalho Monteiro. The property is a wonderland of enchanting gardens, an ornate palace, and mysterious hidden tunnels. Strolling through its grounds feels like stepping into a mystical realm, each turn promising a new treasure to uncover.

Quinta da Regaleira
Quinta da Regaleira
Quinta da Regaleira

The crown jewel of the estate is the Initiation Well—a spiral staircase descending deep into the earth, not as a water source but for rumored rituals. Though finding it takes effort, the mesmerizing view of the deep spiral makes every step worthwhile.

Quinta da Regaleira Initiation Well
Quinta da Regaleira Initiation Well

Lunch in Sintra

We enjoyed lunch at a charming restaurant, engaging in a pleasant conversation with the friendly server. She suggested we take a tuk-tuk for a unique journey to the famous Palácio Nacional da Pena.

A Tuk-tuk Experience

A tuk-tuk is a small, three-wheeled motorized vehicle often used for short-distance transport, offering a fun and scenic way to explore local sights.

After lunch, we hired a tuk-tuk, and our driver proudly proclaimed his was the most beautiful and advanced in the area. During the summer, he caters to tourists at premium rates, while in the off-season, he focuses on taxi services. The cheerful driver, dressed in light clothing, dropped us off before eagerly searching for his next fare.

Sintra tuk-tuk drivers

Visited the Palácio Nacional da Pena

Next, we visited the Palácio Nacional da Pena. Chinese people like to call it “Tomato and Egg Palace”, due to its striking red and yellow hues. 

Palácio Nacional da Pena
Palácio Nacional da Pena
Palácio Nacional da Pena

Once a small chapel, it was transformed into a grand palace in the mid-19th century by Ferdinand II of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha as a gift to Queen Maria II. However, Queen Maria II passed away before its completion. Later, Ferdinand married Alice, a Swiss-born singer and the first American to marry into European royalty. The palace’s history continued through Portugal’s revolution, with Queen Amélie being its last royal resident before her exile. Today, the palace stands as a symbol of a bygone era, full of untold stories.

Palácio Nacional da Pena
Palácio Nacional da Pena
Palácio Nacional da Pena

Rooftop Bar

By the time we returned to Lisbon, the sun was setting. We headed to the rooftop bar at our accommodation to enjoy the sunset, but it was packed. After a short wait, we finally secured seats and enjoyed the serene view.

Lisbon sunset
Lisbon sunset

Dinner at Time Out Market

For dinner, we revisited the Time Out Market for seafood. Along with clams, we treated ourselves to razor clams—a rare delight I hadn’t had in ages. It was a perfect end to a memorable day.

Time Out Market dinner

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