Highlights of the Day
We started our day early, picking up our rental car at Porto Airport and driving through Coimbra, home to the historic University of Coimbra, founded in 1290. We visited the famous Joanina Library and other university attractions, though we had to buy tickets for all three sites. The library’s stunning architecture was impressive, but no photography was allowed. Later, we arrived in Óbidos, where we stayed in a charming townhouse with beautiful sunset views. Unfortunately, after struggling to find dinner, we resorted to cooking instant noodles with canned sardines. The evening took a turn when we discovered the water heater wasn’t on, and without central heating, the cold left us uncomfortable. Despite the day’s highlights, the accommodation challenges reminded us to be more cautious when booking private rentals.
Logistics
Accommodation: Lugar de Obidos (not recommended)
Transportation: Rental Car
Travel Journal
We arrived early at Porto Airport to pick up our rental car, eager to begin our journey to Óbidos. Along the way, we passed through Coimbra,
Portugal’s historic university town. The University of Coimbra, founded in 1290 by King Dinis, is the oldest in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013. Originally based in Lisbon, the university has moved several times before settling in its current location, a place steeped in history and tradition. The sculpture on the image was created to commemorate King Dinis and his establishment of the university.
There are several attractions at the university, with the most famous being the Joanina Library. Built in the 18th century, it is one of the most renowned libraries in Portugal, featuring typical Baroque architecture. In addition to its vast collection of valuable manuscripts, books, and documents, the library is also famous for its exquisite woodwork, painted ceilings, and antique furniture.
As we waited in line to buy tickets for the university’s attractions, we overheard a visitor asking if they could buy tickets for just the library. The answer was no — entry to the library requires purchasing tickets for all three main attractions. It seemed that the university was leveraging the library’s fame to draw attention to its other sites as well.
The library has scheduled visiting times, with the earliest slot at 2pm. So, if you’re short on time, it’s recommended to buy tickets online in advance.
During the waiting period, we visited some of the other attractions included in the combo ticket, such as the Chemistry Lab and the Royal Building. This Royal Building was originally the palace of the Portuguese kings and later became part of the university. It retains many valuable historical artifacts, including grand halls, royal furniture, and artworks. The Capela de São Miguel (Chapel of Saint Michael) was the highlight of our visit. It left us in awe with its stunning blend of Baroque and Renaissance architecture, creating a serene and sacred atmosphere. In the courtyard, there was a bust of the renowned Portuguese historian and scholar Alexandre de Sá Pinto, who made significant contributions to the University of Coimbra, particularly in the fields of history and education.
We walked out of the Royal Building and discovered a stunning panoramic view of Coimbra city, the Mondego River, and the surrounding hills. From here, we could see the historic old town, narrow streets, the iconic Coimbra University Tower, and other landmarks, capturing the city’s rich cultural and educational heritage.
We walked quite a distance to have lunch since there is not much choice nearby. By the time we are back, we missed our 2pm slot. But the people there were very nice. They let us take the next slot to visit the library.
Photography is not allowed inside the library, so we could only find some pictures online to share here. It’s understandable that the library prohibits photography to protect its precious artifacts, but it’s also true that people want to have a memento of their visit. A good compromise might be for the library to allow visitors to download official photos. The library’s architecture and collection are truly awe-inspiring, no doubt. However, there were a few interesting details that really stuck with us. The guide told us that there is a unique colony of bats inside the library, which help protect the rare books from pests. The guide also pointed to a small room and said that it was a “confinement room,” where students who made mistakes would be locked up as punishment.
By evening, we arrived at our charming rental in Óbidos—a delightful two-story townhouse with three cozy bedrooms and a stunning marble staircase.
The balcony offered a breathtaking view of the sunset, its colors immediately captivating. We were filled with excitement about our stay and couldn’t resist snapping a few photos to capture the moment.
We set off in search of dinner. Unfortunately, the first restaurant we tried didn’t serve dinner, and the next one was too far to walk. Given the late hour and our unfamiliarity with the area, we resorted to cooking instant noodles, paired with pickled vegetables and canned sardines we’d picked up earlier. It seems that bringing some food along when traveling is always a wise idea.
The evening took another turn when we discovered that the shower water was lukewarm at best. Tired and with no other option, I took a quick wash and settled in for the night. Later, curiosity prompted me to ask the host on Booking.com about the lack of hot water. After some back and forth, I learned the water heater hadn’t been switched on — the warmth we had felt was simply residual heat from the solar panels. Needless to say, I was frustrated by the lack of communication.
Things took a further turn when we realized the house didn’t have central heating. Each bedroom had only a small electric heater, which couldn’t adequately warm the rooms, and the bathroom was unbearably cold. I layered on as many clothes as I could, but after two nights of this discomfort, I ended up catching a cold. It was a reminder to be cautious about booking private accommodations in the future, especially when it comes to heating and amenities.
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