As the tutor of the Kangxi Emperor and a Grand Secretary (the highest-ranking official), Chen Tingjing held a prominent position at court. He was not only an important statesman and scholar of the Qing Dynasty, but also the chief editor of the Kangxi Dictionary.
His residence is exactly what we visited today—the Huangcheng Chancellor’s Mansion in Jincheng.
The mansion covers 360,000 square meters and includes over 640 rooms, about nine times the size of the well-known Qiao Family Courtyard.
Upon entering, we were immediately struck by the towering stone archway at the gate, richly carved with dragons and phoenixes. The inscriptions on the beams record the family’s achievements across generations, highlighting their scholarly success and honor.
We then arrived at the Grand Secretary Residence, the central living compound of the Chen family. The courtyard faces south, enclosed by high walls, with a layered siheyuan layout including main halls and living quarters.
A story is associated with one of the inner rooms: it is said that Emperor Kangxi once rested there during his southern tour. Since then, the room has remained vacant, as no one dared occupy a space once used by the emperor. A portrait of Kangxi still hangs inside.
Leaving the residential area, we entered the back garden. The quiet setting, with rockeries, ponds, and pavilions, evokes the elegance of Jiangnan gardens. Sitting on a swing there felt like returning briefly to carefree childhood days.
Climbing to a rooftop, we saw rows upon rows of grey-tiled roofs stretching across the compound, resembling an entire village. Over generations, the mansion expanded, reaching its current scale during Chen Tingjing’s time under imperial favor.
Because of his status, the residence came to be known as the “Huangcheng Chancellor’s Mansion.” It remains the largest and best-preserved Qing Dynasty official residence, with the Chen family maintaining influence in government for over a century.
After asking several staff members, we finally found a plaque reading “Wuting Mountain Village,” inscribed by Emperor Kangxi himself, and believed to be one of his final calligraphic works.
Dinner turned into a unique experience. Due to rain, we planned to eat at the hotel, but were told the restaurant was reserved for a large group. Still, we decided to try in person.
After some discussion, the manager allowed us to join the buffet, asking us to take food quickly before the group arrived. Just as we finished picking our dishes, a crowd rushed in. We could only laugh—it felt like grabbing food from the mouth of a tiger 😀
📍 Travel Logistics
🛏️ Accommodation: Hilton Garden Inn Jincheng Gushuyuan
🚗 Transportation: Rental Car
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