Today we left Shuozhou and drove toward the Yellow River at Qikou, stopping along the way to visit Yiju Temple, a Buddhist temple founded during the Song Dynasty. We were the only visitors.
A staff member kindly told us that on the second floor there is a row of “Ten Thousand Buddha Caves,” small grottoes dating back to the Northern Wei or Tang Dynasty. This indicates that Buddhist activity here predates the Song Dynasty and that the site once had a tradition of cave carving. The caves are small and once housed relics of eminent monks, which have since been relocated to nearby pagodas.
Continuing on, we arrived at the lesser-known Xiwang Village Qikou, a Chen family village built along the mountainside. Their ancestor, Chen Rugong, migrated here in the early 16th century, built a cave dwelling halfway up the mountain, and over generations, the family developed into a small village.
The village has a registered population of over a thousand, but fewer than five hundred actually live here. Many houses were closed, and there were few tourists. By chance, we saw a sign reading, “Private courtyard residence, entry 2 RMB per person,” and decided to step inside.
The owner turned out to be the 14th-generation descendant of Chen Rugong. His grandfather, Chen Ruyin, was a well-known merchant and president of the Qikou Chamber of Commerce during the Republican era. He once owned shops, a cigarette factory, and a cotton processing mill. Today, the large courtyard is occupied only by him and his wife, while their children have moved away for work, some to Taiyuan and others to Shanghai.
The owner told us we could climb onto the rooftop for a panoramic view, noting that even CCTV had filmed from there. In the courtyard, various fruits and vegetables were growing, and the large gourds delighted me—I couldn’t resist taking photos with them.
Next, we arrived at Qikou Ancient Town, known as the “First Town of the Nine-Bend Yellow River.” The word “Qi” refers to exposed rocky shoals and gravel bars in the riverbed.
Here, the Yellow River’s complex currents—hidden reefs, shallow waters, and backflows—forced boats to stop, transfer cargo, or change vessels to avoid accidents. Southern river transport ended here, while goods from the north were delivered by caravans and then shipped south, creating the historical pattern of “southern boats and northern caravans.” This brought prosperity to the region and led to the development of Qikou.
Today, the town remains lively, with shops selling food and daily goods. On the hilltop stands the Heilong Temple Qikou, dedicated to the Black Dragon King, a water deity associated with the Yellow River. From here, we enjoyed a panoramic view of both the river and the ancient town.
Our final stop was Lijiashan Village, another hillside village where cave dwellings are embedded into the loess mountains like a honeycomb. Stone paths wind through layers of courtyards, creating a maze-like atmosphere.
The village has a registered population of over seven hundred, but only about half remain, as many young people have left to seek opportunities elsewhere.
As we walked, we suddenly heard lively singing. It turned out that tourists were riding donkeys, holding decorative poles, swaying along, while an elderly man leading the donkey sang loudly. Onlookers laughed, took photos, and enjoyed the festive scene.
We finished our day by a homy dinner in the hotel restaurant.
Planning a similar trip? Download your free itinerary below. 
