Highlights of the Day
Leaving Antarctica behind, we drove south from Santiago into Chile’s celebrated Colchagua Valley, where vineyards stretch across rolling hills and the pace of life slows noticeably. Learning about Chile’s winemaking history—especially the story of Carmenère, a grape nearly lost in Europe but preserved here—added depth to the journey. Arriving in Santa Cruz, we found a peaceful town framed by red-tiled roofs and the distant Andes. From our balcony overlooking the plaza, blooming flowers and warm evening light created a gentle charm. A smooth Carmenère at dinner and a relaxed walk through the square completed the day. A brief encounter with a local boy who greeted us in Chinese reminded us how unexpectedly connected the world can feel. Our first day in Colchagua Valley ended quietly, with anticipation building for tomorrow’s vineyard tour.
Accommodation: Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza
Transportation: Rental Car
After two days of writing about the canceled Antarctic landing, I received many messages praising the cruise company. It seems I have been giving them free publicity. So here are a few more breakfast and post-breakfast photos to continue the “advertisement.”
After breakfast, we took an Uber to the airport rental center. Once we picked up the car, we drove straight toward Chile’s renowned wine region, Colchagua Valley.
Winemaking in Chile dates back to the 16th century, when Spanish conquistadors brought grapevines from Peru to produce wine for Catholic Mass. By the mid-19th century, Chile’s upper class began importing fine French grape varieties from Bordeaux, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc.
One particularly interesting grape is Carmenère. Nearly wiped out in Europe by phylloxera in the 19th century, it survived in Chile. Today, Carmenère has become something of a national symbol.
As we drove south from Santiago, the scenery gradually shifted. The city’s noise faded away, replaced by rolling vineyards. The air felt softer, carrying a hint of ripe fruit.
After more than two hours on the road, we arrived in the small town of Santa Cruz, nestled in the heart of Colchagua Valley. The Andes formed a distant outline, while red-tiled roofs and wooden corridors stood nearby. Everything encouraged us to slow down.
Our original reservation had been a countryside hotel with wine barrels converted into guest rooms, but due to our schedule change, we could no longer secure it. Instead, we stayed at a hotel in town – Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza, which allowed us to better experience the local atmosphere.
The room had a small European-style balcony overlooking Santa Cruz Plaza. Flowers were in full bloom, adding a gentle charm to the view.
We stopped by the tourist office to ask about vineyard tours. The most famous winery here is Viña Montes, but we were told to book directly on their website. We reserved a 1 p.m. tour for the next day.
Dinner was at the hotel restaurant. We ordered their featured Carmenère from Viña Santa Cruz. The wine had low astringency, smooth tannins, a clean finish, and subtle notes of fruit and oak. The braised beef ribs were deeply flavorful, and the bread bowl soaked in rich sauce was irresistible.
After dinner, we strolled through the plaza. Some people sat on benches, others walked their dogs. The pace of life felt unhurried.
At a nearby supermarket, a young boy greeted us with “你好.” When I asked if he spoke Chinese, he replied that he didn’t understand it. Through a mix of Spanish and guessing, we learned he worked for a Chinese company. He said goodbye to us again in Chinese, smiling brightly. The warmth of the people here left a deep impression.
Our first day in Colchagua Valley ended in this relaxed and cheerful atmosphere. Tomorrow, the vineyards await.
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