Highlights of the Day
On Day 8, we visited Viña Montes in Apalta Valley, one of the most representative boutique wineries in Chile’s Colchagua Valley. The story of its founders — beginning with dismissal from a wine company and evolving into an internationally recognized brand — was both inspiring and impressive. We learned about Carménère’s rediscovery in Chile, the winery’s gravity-based production design, and its oak aging process. The angel statue, symbolizing protection and resilience, added a meaningful touch to the brand’s identity. During the tasting, we sampled Outer Limits, Montes Alpha, M, and Purple Angel, gaining a deeper understanding of tannins, body, acidity, and structure. Lunch overlooking endless vineyards completed the experience. Waiting for an Uber at sunset unexpectedly became the most peaceful moment of the day — a reminder that travel’s finest memories often emerge from unplanned pauses.
Accommodation: Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza
Transportation: Rental Car
Breakfast was included at the hotel. As we walked into the dining room, a young woman was playing the harp. It was the first time I had seen live music at breakfast — an unexpected gift to start the day.
The buffet was generous. Scrambled eggs and sausages were standard, but I was especially drawn to the cold cuts. The slices of pork, layered with lean and fat, tasted almost identical to the aspic-style meat from my childhood. A familiar flavor, long forgotten.
At Santa Cruz Plaza, workers were setting up large tents for next weekend’s grape harvest festival. It is one of the most important annual events here. Wineries set up booths, visitors taste newly made wines, and the square fills with music and celebration. We “perfectly” missed it. Had our Antarctica trip gone as planned, we would have arrived just in time. Somehow, it felt as if everything had already been decided.
Around noon, we called an Uber to Viña Montes. I had heard that Uber was not common in this area and had worried about transportation. To my surprise, it has already reached deep into the countryside, though the waiting time was slightly longer than in big cities.
The car drove into the estate in Apalta Valley. The hills were covered in lush greenery. Rows of vines lined the slopes, and the plains stretched out in endless vineyards. No wonder this is one of the largest and most important wineries in the region.
Our guide, Francisca, warmly introduced herself. There were only four visitors in our group, which made the atmosphere relaxed and personal. She took us on an open vehicle and drove us around the property while explaining the history of the winery.
Viña Montes was founded in 1988 and is one of the most representative boutique wineries in Colchagua Valley. One of its founders, Aurelio Montes, played a key role in bringing Chilean premium wines to the international stage.
The story of the founders was inspiring. After being dismissed from a wine company, Montes decided to start his own winery. He partnered with a former colleague from sales, another partner who owned a small vineyard, and an investor. In 1990, they purchased their first 500 acres of land — only to discover that just over 100 acres were suitable for planting. The rest lay on steep hillsides. Today, those hills are protected by the government and can no longer be developed. The company has since expanded to eight wineries.
Most of the vineyard here is planted with Carménère, a grape that had nearly disappeared worldwide before being rediscovered in Chile. The guide even invited us to taste a grape straight from the vine. I had always assumed wine grapes were too sour to eat, but this one was surprisingly sweet and pleasant.
Inside the production area, the air was filled with the rich scent of fermenting fruit. At the entrance stood a statue of an angel. One of the founders had survived several dangerous incidents and believed an angel had protected him. The original sculpture had lost its wings; the current wings were added later. That is why an angel now appears on every bottle of Montes wine.
The winery’s design was ingenious. Grapes are first brought to the rooftop, where they are separated from stems. Openings in the roof align directly above the fermentation tanks. Once opened, grapes are dropped straight into the tanks, breaking naturally upon impact and eliminating the need for mechanical crushing.
After fermentation, the wines are aged in oak barrels for six to twenty-four months. Premium labels are typically aged for at least eighteen months.
We also visited a special aging room reserved for their top wines. These wines rest in brand-new French oak barrels, and music is played in the cellar — a practice that reminded me of stories about music being played for cattle in Japan.
The tasting session included four wines: Outer Limits, led by Montes’ son; the iconic Montes Alpha, their first label; and two premium wines, M and Purple Angel. For each wine, the guide explained tannins, aromas, body, acidity, and alcohol level. Wine truly is a multidimensional liquid, demanding time and patience to understand.
After the tour, we had lunch at the winery restaurant. Through the glass walls, endless vineyards stretched into the distance. Grapes hung heavy on the vines. A small child walked past holding a bunch of grapes, smiling innocently, and we could not help but laugh.
The grilled prawns and grilled octopus were excellent, especially paired with their signature wines.
After purchasing several bottles at the visitor center, we called an Uber back to the hotel. This time we waited twenty-five minutes — a reminder that rural Uber markets are still developing.
We were in no hurry. As we waited, we wandered once more among the vines. Under the evening light, the valley grew quiet, and the vines swayed gently in the breeze. The waiting time turned out to be the most peaceful moment of the day.
Sometimes, the best part of travel lies in these unplanned pauses.
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