The largest among Shanxi’s four great courtyards, The Wang Family Courtyard covers about 250,000 square meters. It is said to be even larger than the Forbidden City, earning titles such as the “Folk Forbidden City” and “China’s First Residence.”
As we entered the scenic area, the atmosphere immediately felt different. There were far more shops than at the Li Family Courtyard, most selling food.
Arriving at the entrance, we were struck by the grand staircase and stone stele engraved with “Wang Family Courtyard.”
Our visit began at Shilu Fort. Inside, a plaque displayed the Wang family motto, with the memorable opening lines: “Be faithful in speech and sincere in action.” This likely contributed to the family’s prosperity over generations.
We then visited Guangyu Hall, also known as the former residence of Wang Shi, the true founder of the estate.
Wang Shi moved here around 1312–1313, starting as a tenant farmer. Through diligence and honesty, especially in his tofu business, he gradually became prosperous. His family expanded over twenty-nine generations, with descendants now spread worldwide.
The residence also highlights his descendants Wang Qianshou and Wang Qianhe, who were both diligent and capable in business, and contributed supplies during the suppression of the Three Feudatories Rebellion, earning imperial recognition.
Other descendants also excelled in business, medicine, and official careers, contributing to the expansion of this vast complex.
The architecture of the courtyard is exquisite, combining northern grandeur with southern refinement. Even small details, such as stair railings and edges, feature delicate carvings of lions, monkeys, and other motifs.
Within Hengzhen Fort lies a triple garden complex with a Jiangnan-style aesthetic, making it a popular spot for photos.
According to guides, during the land reform period, the estate was divided among more than two hundred households. It was later reclaimed and developed as a tourist site in the 1990s.
In the evening, we arrived at Pingyao Ancient City.
The ancient city spans about three kilometers and is home to over forty thousand residents.
The main street is lively and bustling, lined with shops selling food and goods. What surprised me most were the numerous “costume photography” studios. Later, seeing many visitors dressed in traditional attire, the reason became clear.
For dinner, we chose the well-known local restaurant Tianyuan Kui. The restaurant is large and deep inside, serving authentic Shanxi cuisine.
During the meal, the staff offered local specialties such as oil tea and vinegar tastings. Though it seemed like a promotion, it was done casually without pressure.
Restaurants were abundant, with people inviting customers at every entrance—no long waits like in Datong.
On the taxi ride back, the driver explained that only historically significant buildings receive government subsidies. Ordinary residents must rely on themselves to relocate, and renovation is restricted to preserve the city’s uniform appearance. Living in the ancient city, it seems, is not easy.
📍 Travel Logistics
🛏️ Accommodation: Hampton by Hilton Pingyao Ancient City
🚗 Transportation: Rental Car
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